2009-08-11
Lesaka
The town I’m in right now has a population of 2,700 people. It is part of a group of towns in upper-nafarroa known as the Bortziriak (5 villages). These are: Bera, Lesaka, Igantzi, Etxalar and Arantza.
This region borders Gipuzkoa to the north and west and France to the north and east. Nafarroa is no longer part of the coalition of the provinces of Araba, Bizkaia, and Gipuzkoa which make up the Basque autonomous region known as Euskadi. This means it receives little to no support from the government to help the language. Therefore, the barnetegi I’m in right now is run by IKA which is an Euskaltegi based in Gasteiz, the capital of Araba.
All the towns of the bortziriak region are rather small and there is no intercity bus service, but rather a bus that runs occasionaly through the towns from Donostia. I arrived on one of these. I was one of the two passengers on the standard size bus, and when the driver stopped in Lesaka I didn’t even realize it was where I needed to get off until he shouted at me. I walked about a quarter kilometre with my camping backpack, suitcase and backpack to an old building, the Barnetegi. It’s right in the middle of town, with a bar named kattu, kitchen, and dining room on the bottom floor.
This Barnetegi is a bit different from the last. Instead of grammar classes eight hours/day we finish at 2pm and eat lunch then do different activities, excursions, workshops, etc. In the afternoon. We are broken up into teams and have to help setting the tables for meals, clearing them off, and bringing the others coffee and tea and desert. Smoking is allowed in the dining room, so I often have that smell on my clothes after eating, which can be somewhat of a nuisance since i’m from California.
The first week I wasn’t feeling it, but I’m starting to get into the swing of things now. Sometimes it’s hard to be in a classroom during the summer…sometimes it’s just plain hard to be in a classroom. I couldn’t really think of anything else that would be interesting to do here during the summer. I would most likely be really bored and or lonely otherwise. At least in the barnetegis I have plentiful opportunities to make friends, learn new things, visit new places, get my meals and my sleeping arrangements taken care of, and gather new life experiences. Yeah, it’s a pretty nice set up.
I’m sharing a room with three girls. It’s an interesting experience to say the least. There was another older woman with us the first two nights, but she realized her snoring was bothering us, so she decided to leave. I’m on a floor with a balcony. The balcony leads from one side of the building to the other. On one end is our room and on the other is the bathroom. Every morning when I look from the balcony at the old church steeple and houses, and the mountains shrouded in mist I feel like I’m in a different world, like something out of a fairy tale.
The village itself is quite different from any place I’ve ever been. Everything is old. There’s a small stream running through the center of town with some disproportianately large fish, numerous bars, a few shops, and lots of baratzeak (vegetable gardens) peppered throughout the town. That’s one side of town. The other side of town (literally almost half the town) is taken up by the industrial sector, featuring one huge iron factory that provides jobs to some 700 people. It’s quite the contrast. Lesaka is, nonetheless, a very friendly place. Whenever I’m running through town people always salute me with a customary “Aio!”
Today we walked to a neighboring town, Igantzi to visit the last basketmaker in the Bortziriak region. Crafting a basket right in front of us he explained to us that there used to be 40 or so basquet makers. With his hands that have literally been deformed from years of basket making he explained to us that he constructs all of his baskets using only chestnut wood, and that chestnut trees have been recently infected by a lethal fungal disease.
Earlier today as I was going back to school after eating my morning pintxo I ran into Rafa, the guy who gave us a tour of the town the first day. An older man in his sixties or seventies. Before the tour began he said out loud to everyone that they deserved recognition for learning basque and then he came up to me and shook my hand and said that I REALLY deserved recognition for being from California and studying Basque. He had told us about the church and other touristy things, and also commented on some of the little details in the town, such as the statue work on this one balcony that featured lions as supports intricately endowed with barrabilak (testicles) and zakilak (penises).
Anyway, when I ran into Rafa today, he was pushing a stroller with a little girl inside of it. He led me into his house asking me if I wanted to see the Lesaka version of the San Fermin festival. At the bottom of his house he had set up a little model of some of the town complete with the river, figurines, and the city hall. He also had some music rigged up to go along with it. His friend just so happened to be dropping off a box of fresh produce from his baratze at the same time, which reminded me to ask if there were any opportunities to get to know how the baratzeak function. Rafa, nonetheless, suggested I meet up with him and his friends in the night to talk about it at a bar.
So I went to the bar tonight at 8pm and met his friends and told them a little bit about myself, and my interest in basque, gardens, food production and what have you. We arranged that I will go tomorrow to visit one friend’s baratzea and Rafa suggested I bring a notebook to write some things down.
So tomorrow at 7pm I will dive head first into the secret world of the Basque baratzea!
To be continued…